Aiicioo Reptile Basking Light Bulb – 75W Reptile Heat Lamp 2 Pack UVA Daylight Amphibians Basking Bulb for Bearded Dragon Turtle Hermit Crab Gecko Lizard Daylight

>> DOES THE JOB
> Note that this review was not written for bulbs which emit red light — Amzn moved the review for some reason unknown to me. This review is for bulbs which emit only invisible (to human beings) infrared light.> Does the job. Radiant heat without light. My Senegal parrot loves it. Georgie’s day-cage is on an outside patio in south Florida. I use the heat emitter perhaps 30 days/year when the temperature is between 50 and 65 degrees, and cover the top of the cage with a large beach towel (because cold = windy in south Florida). At night and below 50 degrees during the day, Georgie stays inside.COLORThe emitters come in two colors (black and white), but both produce exactly the same infrared (heat). I have the white version. I suppose some very skittish animals might be uneasy with reflection from a shiny white surface, which is probably the reason for the black version.PLACEMENTRemember that this is radiant heat—it bounces like light. I place the emitter about 3″ outside the cage, about 6″ below the top—that way, with the top of the cage covered, some radiant heat will bounce down from the cover to warm Georgie’s top side. His perch is perpendicular to the emitter, about 2″ below the emitter, so that Georgie can choose how much warmth he wants by distance from the emitter. A “nesting box” is immediately below the perch—that way heat can bounce upward from the top of the box to warm Georgie’s underside, and the box itself absorbs some warmth, in case Georgie needs to retreat from a hawk, cat, or other perceived threat, or just to nap. I am considering adding a second 60-watt emitter solely to warm Georgie’s nesting box, which would provide a toasty retreat even if the temperature drops unexpectedly. Note that an ordinary cardboard box with a entrance hole can serve as a “nesting box”.60, 100, OR 150 WattsThe 60 watt is it is adequate for closed vessels, such as 10 gallon aquariums, for which it is recommended. However, even for relatively small uncovered cages, it may not be sufficient. My guestimate (based on use) is that in non-windy conditions 60 watts is adequate for a single medium-small animal able to get within 6″ inches of the emitter, in an open cage down to 50 degrees, perhaps 40 degrees with the cage covered (i.e., with a towel or blanket). If the ambient temperature is lower, or the cage is large, or contains many animals, or it is impractical for the residents to get close to the emitter, then maybe a 100 watt or 150 watt emitter would be preferred.GENERAL COMMENTS AND CAVEATSThese generalization depend on the size of your animal, how many animals are in the cage, activity level, and whether cold-blooded or warm blooded. A small difference in body size makes a big difference, because the ratio of surface area to mass increases exponentially with decreasing size.> A parakeet can probably survive temperatures which would kill a slightly smaller lovebird. A rat can survive temperatures which would kill a mouse.> On the other hand, a half-dozen active finches can do a pretty can do a pretty good job of warming up a covered cage by themselves. Or a group of small rodents can huddle together for warmth.> Most birds can reasonably adjust to ambient temperatures by growing more down feathers—but it takes time. Small mammals can adjust by other mechanisms—but it takes time. So don’t suddenly expose your animal much colder temperatures than it is used to.> If its cold, be sure your animal has access to plenty of high-energy food—such as nuts.> If your animal is a nest-builder, be sure it is supplied with plenty of material.> If you need to warm your animal’s container to more than 30 degrees above ambient, then you probably risk chilling or cooking it—I strongly suggest investing in a thermostat to control the infrared emitter. It is particularly easy to cook animals in terrariums. At the very least, for terrariums, always install a thermometer, or several at strategic points.> A large container of water in a terrarium can go a long way toward moderating temperatures.SAFETY> Note that the emitter itself of (even a 60 watt unit) gets very hot—and can badly burn your pet or your fingers—even thought it may not feel very hot from 1″ away. Be sure your pet cannot reach the surface of the emitter. And DO NOT touch the surface to check if it is working.> I suggest installing the emitter in a wire-cage holder on the side (not the top) of your pet’s cage or aquarium, so that your pet can choose its own preferred amount of warmth by distance from the emitter.> I suggest installing using a switch with an indicator light, which will tell you whether the emitter is on or off without burning your fingers. If your lamp-holder has a switch, tape it in the “on” position with blue painter’s tape.> If your pet is a bird, or otherwise a plastic-chewer, be sure to be sure that it cannot get at the electrical cord.

Heat bulbs
2 in a package, works good!

Nice product, hard to judge the value to chickens
I use this in a small/medium sized chicken coop. We have 11 chickens. We live in New Hampshire, where it can get very cold on some winter nights.This heater looks nice and feels like ceramic. I hang it from a lighting cord down into the middle of the coop. Our coop is not insulated but has closed doors and window at night, without drafts.I wish I could ask my chickens if this thing makes any difference in the coop. The thermometer on the wall inside suggests the temperature is 10 degrees higher with this on, than without. The chickens themselves keep the coop warmer than the outside air. This heater adds a bit more warmth. I just don’t know if it’s enough to help them feel warmer. Maybe the increase is slight enough that they don’t notice.During the handful of days when the nighttime temperature dropped below zero, I am not sure this heater helped much.I also do not know the exact cost of running this heater. I plug it in at night when the chickens are sleeping. I suspect the cost of running the heater is equally small, as is the benefit to the chickens. I guess it makes me feel a little more like I added a small comfort to their coop life.Next winter I might add a true heat lamp for those handful of truly frigid nights.

Tortoise light
Good light for my tortoise inclosement

My little box turtle had a respiratory infection; one of the causes was insufficient heat. I bought two of these bulbs, made sure the terrarium was warm, with a cooler area for him; the radiant (ambient) heat has made such a difference!! (Plus the good quality food I’m feeding him, etc.) He is returning to his happy little self, his appetite has returned, and so on. Luv this light! Instead of one tiny warm spot, the area below the light is all warm!

It’s garbage, don’t buy, both lights it didn’t even last us 30 days. No support available.

Works quite well keeps my little lady very warm